Tales of Pro

Tales of Pro

This site is an archive of documents, images as well as other information
relevant to the history of climbing in Australia particularly that of climbing
protection available up to the late 1970’s.

Comments are welcome by emailing (rockofageskb@gmail.com). 

Text © Keith Bell 2019. 

The named photographers hold the copyright to photographs. Photographs by the author will be titled only but copyright still applies. Other photographs taken on the author’s camera by an unknown person will be credited to the Keith Bell Collection (KBC). Please request permission to reproduce.

See also: rockofageskb.blogspot.com

 Introduction:

Time marches on and so has the development of climbing protection. The march of time has also meant the demise of many fine climbers and with them the diminishment of our collective memories. This Blog is an attempt to fill the spaces in relation to the early climbing protection used in Australia.

Legend has it that British climbers used to carry pebbles in their pockets that could be inserted into cracks, threaded, clipped, then used as runners in case of a fall. The evolution of metal chocks is attributed to the same climbers who while walking beside the Snowdon Railway track to Clogwyn du’r Arddu collected machine nuts, drilled them out, threaded them and so began the slow development of the modern protection device.

Initially in Australia during the 1950’s and 1960’s most techniques were derived from reading British books although paradoxically the early equipment was mainly of European origin. My visits to Paddy’s in Sydney in the early 1960’s, then located upstairs in Bathurst Street between George and Pitt were the Stubai steel carabiners, soft steel pegs and piton hammers then on display. This was augmented with lovely coiled 120 feet (35 metres) of inch and a half manila rope and spliced slings of the same material. So equipped we tackled climbs like Giucco Piton and the 100 Foot Slabs at Narrowneck. Some of these climbs were fitted with the occasional bolt (thanks be to Bryden Allen) but mostly used trees, bollards, the occasional in-situ soft steel peg and a lot of nerve. 

And so this story begins with the humble threaded machine nuts and takes a basically chronological path through to the late 1970’s. I hope that you enjoy the journey.

Keith Bell

Contents:

Part 1.                   Drilled out Machine Nuts

Part 2.                   Ballraces

Part 3.                   The Spud
Part 3a.                  A Spud in Time

Part 4.                    The Immaculate MOAC

Part 4a.                  The Pierre Allain Carabiner

Part 5.                     Ewbank goes Crackers

Part 5a.                   Precious Object 

Part 6.                     Bong Bong

Part 7.                     Tube Chocks

Part 8.                      Clog Brass Hexagon

Part 9.                      Clog or Troll????

Part 10.                    Chouinard Stoppers
Part 11.                    RP's

Part 12.                    Original Hexcentrics

Part 13.                    Polycentric Hexcentrics

Part 14.                    Solid Stem Original Friends

Part 14a.                  First Sighting
Part 14b.
Part 15.                    Rocks
Part 16.                    HB's
Part 17.                    Climbing Gear - 1974 and before
Part 18.                    Grand Recap

Part 1.  Drilled out Machine Nuts

Distant memories tell me that I did have some drilled out nuts usually three to a small cord sling that I used for runners while climbing. Hopefully, I purchased them at a hardware store and did not filch them from the gearbox of my Dad’s car.

 

Suitably rusted drilled out machine nuts on a sling.
My thanks to Doug McLean

Just how good they were I can’t remember.  But at that time I (and most other people) were climbing at Narrowneck, Katoomba. We had read about this style of ‘nut’ in the climbing books from the UK, our main sources of information and inspiration at the time.

More Machine Nuts on slings
(Photo Stephane Pennequin/Nuts Museum)

The one thing that stands out about this type of protection, the name has stood the test of time as the original ‘nut’ has morphed into a generic name for many shapes and types that are available now.

  

Part 2. Ballraces

This is a peculiarly Australian adaption first used by John Davis of the Sydney Rockclimbing Club. Again, I had a set of these probably salvaged from my ‘billycart days’ and not from the gearbox of the family car.

A Set of Ballraces.
(Photo Stephane Pennequin/Nuts Museum)

The outer ring was broken off and the stronger inner race was used as ‘the nut’. Two or three of different sizes were slipped onto a sling: I used No 3 nylon so had at least progressed from manila. Again, I can’t remember exactly where I used them but there is an outstanding climb that utilised them on its first ascent at Mt Piddington.

The steep, overhanging start to Ballrace
through the yellow rock at Wirindi, Mt Victoria.

Ballrace                     15                            240’

A long varied climb. The first known climb in Australia to use ballraces as protection.

J. Davis

D. Whitham                           5^th March 1965

Ewbank J.M. Rockclimbs in the Blue Mountains, 1967, Pages 127-128

The grade is now considered to be 17 in recent guide books.

Part 3.  The Spud

In days of old

When climbers were bold

And cams hadn’t been invented

The gear was crud

One was called a ‘spud’

Trapezoidal in shape and

Racked three to a sling

It was just better than nothing?

With apologies to the Bard, any bard.

The humble Spud was developed by a British climber named John Earnshaw in 1963 and was an improvement on the drilled out machine nuts previously used. The name came about because his Irish machinist friend who helped him was named Murphy. In Ireland a potato is called a ‘murphy’ or a ‘spud’.

 

A crop of Spuds
(Courtesy Scottish Mountain Heritage Collection)

The ‘Spud’ probably arrived in Australia after 1965 and quickly replaced (or augmented) the drilled out machine nuts and ball race inners that climbers were using at the time. The deficiency of the ‘Spud’ was it was threaded through a single hole through its sides and this provided a one-directional placement. This method of slinging also precluded its use in shallow slots as the sling protruded out of both sides.

Part 3a. A Spud in Time

Sitting across from Govetts Leap, Blackheath is a climb called Serenity (See photo below). It looks like the Eternity but slopes the other way and is many times higher. Howard Bevan and I climbed it in March or April 1970 taking two days with highly inadequate gear.

Serenity from Govetts Leap, Blackheath in the Blue Mountains, New South Wales. The route goes up the right of the yellow wall to its rounded apex starting from the  half way ledge.

It was just the end of the 1960’s though and the climbing gear available was still may it be said -   primitive. A sack of spuds, some of Ewbank’s nuts and a bunch of early Peck or Troll wires were all the go. Ohh, and I forgot the obligatory, immaculate MOAC chockstone. There was nothing really that suited wide cracks and most nut placements were unstable given the solidity and small end sections of the various aluminium extrusions. It was a tough haul up that crack and we ended up from memory grading it 18 and M5.On the third pitch one of the nuts we placed for a belay was jammed tight in a horizontal slot and could not be removed. We left it and moved on. In 1985 Greg Mortimer and I returned and freed the climb at 22 in a very short day. No doubt that the incremental development of the gear available made a large contribution to the ease of this ascent.

It was a nostalgic moment when I climbed back onto the ledge and there was the abandoned Spud now hanging loosely in the slot.  After Greg lead the next pitch and it was my turn to climb I ruminated on whether I should dig out the Spud or just leave it. In the end I left it: My reason I think was to leave it as a monument to the passage of time and the evolution of gear.

I often wonder if it is still there.

Part 4. The Immaculate MOAC

“I have been carrying one on my rack for several years now and when it slots into a perfect crack it is a thing of beauty”.The Curator, Vertical Archaeology

Probably every Trad climber has a favourite piece of gear that he/she invariably uses on lead. Nowadays for me it is the red #1 Camalot closely followed by the green #12 Stopper. Given the range of gear available these days you may have noticed that I have made two selections. This has not always been the case. Back in the late 1960’s there was only one choice to be made and most people made it. The magnificent, marvellous, incomparable, superlative, consummate, brilliant, remarkable, peerless, matchless, flawless, stellar and yes even immaculate MOAC Chockstone. 

 

The Immaculate MOAC Chockstone
(Photo Stephane Pennequin/Nuts Museum)

Climbers salivated over its seductively rounded corners, the subtle vertical striations along its length and the amazing wedge shape of its body. They would rather lose their boyfriend/girlfriend than to part with this amazing piece of aluminium. It was the nut for every occasion. Unlike the earlier Spud this little number tapered two ways with twin 9mm holes along its length for stringing. The design of the MOAC also gave provision for it to be bisected so that you could procure two nuts for the price of one. I must admit that I never heard of this barbarous act of sacrilege being performed as most climbers preferred theirs to be the whole deal. You were a nobody if you didn’t have an intact one hanging off your seatbelt waistband.

As the Mortein ad states “When you are on a good thing, stick to it”. Unfortunately, a Mark II MOAC was introduced and suddenly climbers valued their boyfriend/girlfriend more than this nut. Gone were the curves and striations adorning its seductive shape to be replaced by smooth sides and angular corners. The magic was gone. Soon Peck, Troll and Ewbank nuts would enter the market although they are stories better left to another day.

The Mark II MOAC with the worst Carabiner ever made.

A mixture of Mark I's and Mark II's

My memory fails me when I try to remember a climb or incident where the MOAC took centre stage but there is no doubt that this ‘precious ingot’ saved my bacon on many an occasion. 

Acknowledgement is gratefully given to https://verticalarchaeology.com/2015/07/09/moac-nuts/ for the initial quote and accompanying photographs.

Part 4a. Pierre Allain Carabiner

Slightly weathered Pierre Allain Carabiner.

I purchased this carabiner sometime in the 1960’s from Paddy Pallin’s Store in Bathurst Street, Sydney. Not really sure whether it was before I bought it or afterwards but a warning appeared in ‘Thrutch’, the climbing magazine that this was a dangerous item. While it is a rather shapely carabiner its problem was that it does not have a locking pin or notch on the end of the gate as can be seen in the photo with the gate opened. This meant that under load all forces would go down the back and none would be transmitted along the gate as is normal in most carabiners. It was in pristine condition until 2017 when it was relegated to an outside (leaky) storage box while renovations were taking place on the chateau.

Gate open showing the lack of a lock pin or notch.

Part 5. Ewbank goes Crackers

John Ewbank - a name that fairly resonates throughout the Australian climbing community. John is widely acclaimed for the multitude of new routes he established and the open ended numerical grading system that he developed.  However, less well known are the nuts he developed and sold widely called ‘Crackers’. 

Ewbank Crackers
(Stephane Pennequin/Nuts Museum)

And crackers they certainly were. Having a few of them on your rack could almost seem to double your body weight as John used solid aluminium hexagonal extrusions as a basis for them. Transverse cuts on both ends, two drill holes for threading and a stamped adjoined elegant JE and a letter for brand and size identification completed the product. The largest was 4 1/2 inches or 113 mms in length; he jokingly called these his ‘Kiss of Death’ series. Later on he introduced lightening holes in line and adjacent with the threading holes as well as a single hole drilled along the axis of the block.

Ewbank 'Crackers' with strung and wired examples.
(Stephane Pennequin/Nuts Museum)

Unslung Ewbank Crackers etched by salt after being taken onto Balls Pyramid in 1970 and 1973.

I probably had these on my rack from 1967 through to 1972 and used them in the Blue Mountains and in the European Alps. I can recall using them on the first ascent of the ‘Gates of Janus’ with Howard Bevan in 1969 and remember placing a ‘Kiss of Death’ at the top of the initial crack as it widens and then eases off.  At the time I viewed it as my saviour as I had worn my brand new pair of RD’s with its hard, slippery and untested rubber. Not a good combination for a steep and committing layback section.

 

The author on Ashes and Diamonds at Swanage on the Dorset Coast
with a Ewbank Cracker dangling down. Note the RD boots.
(Rick Jamieson)

In the Blue Mountains we also used Crackers on the first ascent of Slipstream at Echo point, Katoomba in 1972. The photo below shows Ray Lassman leading its first pitch with a bunch of Crackers nestling within his rack.

Ray Lassman on Slipstream, Echo Point.

We also carried them on our 1970 ascent of Balls Pyramid. The latter I can be definitely sure of as the aluminium of our nuts and carabiners was adversely affected by the corrosive salt atmosphere of the Pyramid. Check out the samples above and you can see the original Ewbank salt effected Crackers that we used. After our recent visit in 2017 the first thing the team did on return to Lord Howe island was to wash our gear in fresh water in order to prevent similar etching of our modern and expensive gear. One day later we could have let the monsoonal effects of an enormous East Coast Low do it for us.




See Below.

On return I dug out the above gear and it now reposes at the Museum. There are two ring-in nuts on the left but the five on the right are all examples of Ewbank Crackers. All were sent off threaded with period tubular tape and I experienced some difficulty getting this for the unthreaded ones. Off to their right are some classic Cassin Bonaiti carabiners and even earlier oval examples. All the were used by the 1970 expedition and the ones on the extreme right were also used to clip drums onto the circular line to get them from boat to shore by the 2017 Australian Museum Expedition. The coiled rope was used by Greg Mortimer and I on the Skyline Traverse in 1973. If you get to Lord Howe Island make sure that you go and check out the Museum, maybe the Pyramid as well.

Part 5a. - Precious Object 

 

Bluff Mountain, Warrumbungles, NSW

Most [climbers] accumulate old stuff in our packs, in boxes, in the car, in the shed. When I was asked to write something about favourite old things, my rummaging turned up detritus such as an old green Arapiles guide, filed-out nuts on number 2 [nylon} rope slings, a rock from the summit of Balls Pyramid, homemade pegs, wooden wedges, rurps, sundry nuts as well as a pair of rusty crampons. Plenty of choice here but what should I select?

 

Keith Lockwood holding the salvaged Ewbank Cracker.
(Ross Taylor -Vertical Life)

An old ‘Cracker’, made by John Ewbank and stamped with his name, won the lottery. I found it halfway up Ginsberg (19, 332m) on Bluff Mountain [in the Warrumbungles] when Peter Morris and I did the second ascent and first free ascent 40 years ago. I was lost on a vertical sea of trachyte, exposed to billy-o, when I saw a shred of white tape above. Ah, that’s where Bryden and John must have gone on the first ascent six years earlier. We continued inching up the 1000-foot wall with just a little extra spring in our step.

Keith Lockwood

https://www.verticallifemag.com.au/2016/11/precious-object-keith-lockwood/

Ginsberg                  19                  332 m

Bryden Allen  & John Ewbank       7-4-1969

The climb starts below the obvious overhang at the top of the cliff on the right hand side. It breaks through this via a groove at the right hand end of the overhang.

Part 6. Bong Bong

I did not intend to really cover pitons but the bong is probably an exception. Certainly throughout the 1960’s to the early 1970’s this was the only piece of equipment suitable for extra wide cracks. Though it was usually hammered in it could also be used as a nut as once slid into place it could be threaded through the holes with a sling and then clipped. Initially Bongs were made of steel but later to lessen the damage to the rock (and weight) were formed from high strength aluminium. The heads were riveted to ensure maximum rigidity while driving.

The Original Steel Bong.
(Scottish Mountain Heritage Collection)

Chouinard first introduced the original sheet steel Bong in 1960 but replaced it with the aluminium version in 1961. They came in four sizes; 2, 21/2, 3 and 4 inch. It was much later in the 60’s when I first purchased some of their number. In terms of usage I think Jeff Morgan and I used a bong or two to protect the wide pitch leading to the top of Ozymandias Direct when we made its second ascent in 1972. They were probably also used on some of the off-widths that lurked along the frontal of Frog Buttress.

A Set of Aluminium Bongs.

But a better story is the one in 1973 when Rick White suggested that I divert my attention from the French Alps and join him in Yosemite Valley to make the first Australian ascent of The Nose. And so persuaded I flew into Los Angeles. 

Landing at LAX is never fun but again I was signalled out for attention. Was it the orange Whillans pack or long hair or perhaps both? Well, they always wanted to check out my pack and so I steadily unloaded it and showed the contents to the customs official. A great deal of it was climbing equipment much of it looking like instruments of torture, probably not a bad description for it at times.

Patiently going through my gear, carabiners, nuts, slings, ropes and finally some pitons. Now a really large one seemed to attract a great deal of attention as I had put smaller nuts inside it and wrapped some tape around it. ‘What’s this?’ demanded the official. Given the gravity of the situation I thought that I could only give an honest response. ‘It’s a BONG!’ Boy, had I hit the jackpot. Several other customs officers moved into position and I thought that I could hear the clanking of the manacles and the scratching of the pen on the deportation certificate.

The remnants of my collection.
The larger of which is the offending Bong.

It was obvious that some fast-talking was required as suspected drug mules and users are certainly not welcomed in most countries particularly in the US of A. While the offending bong did have apertures I was able to show that they were too big and numerous to be used for that particular purpose. As they backed off I was able to indicate how it was placed into the rock and the origin of its name: Bong – Bong – Bong – Bong.The increasing pitch of the noise as it was hammered into the rock. With my explanation the impasse was breached, my passport stamped and I was allowed to make my way out of the airport. Several buses later saw me enter the Valley via the Wawona Tunnel albeit far too late to climb the Nose with Rick.

Perhaps I should have called it a piton?

By the early 1970’s this item had been bonged out by the advent of LARGER nuts.

Acknowledgement to 
https://verticalarchaeology.com/…/chouinard-4-inch-bong-pi…/
http://www.smhc.co.uk/objects_item.asp?item_id=32840
for the photos of the Bongs. 

Part 7. Tube Chocks

An ever present source of anxiety throughout the 1960’s and into the 1970’s was the protection of wide cracks. The problem was twofold; chimneys are wide and often unprotectable unless there was a crack in the wall or a convenient chockstone to be threaded. Narrower off-width cracks though are strenuous and the largest gear available was usually too small to use unless there was a convenient waist or a narrowing of the walls deep inside the crack. While the Bong could be used in the latter situation it did not fit in well with the Clean Climbing Ethic that had began influencing Australian Climbing in the late 1960’s. I can remember having a nut made from a heavy, narrow diameter piece of steel pipe about 150mms long that I carried (sometimes) but never (from memory) had the misfortune or need to use.

The superlative Chouinard Catalogue around 1970 made an immense impression on the local scene and so did the gear that it offered. Indeed, it ushered in a major change from the British influences that abounded throughout the previous decade to the mores of ‘Pax Americana’ in the next one. The Tube Chock did not get a run in the catalogue, it would appear alongside the technological adjustments that Chouinard made to Hexentrics in 1973. With it, although off-widths were never a popular style of climbing, they suddenly became somewhat protectable. That is, if you could hang around long enough to place the gear.

The Tube Chock came in three sizes: 4 inch (100mms), 5 inch (125mms) and 6 inch (150mms) as shown in the photo.

A Set of Tube Chocks.

There was an additional innovation on the Tube Chock to ease the difficulties of carriage while climbing. One of the bottom holes for threading was enlarged so that the sling could be pulled through so that the chock could be carried in the vertical position (See photo). This then required an additional movement usually with two hands before the chock could be placed. The size of the tube used also allowed the knot of the sling to be contained internally.

Tube Chock showing the enlarged threading hole for tucking the sling.

Another problem with the Tube Chock was that it would often ride on crystals on its rounded top edges and this affected its stability as well as the climber’s feeling of security. Later, this was ameliorated by having a steeper angle from the middle half of the end to the top. This then allowed for a snugger and more stable fit in such situations. 

It is probable that the first and and many subsequent ascents of Venom, Juggernaut and Midnight Express at Frog Buttress, Queensland were protected by these chocks. Etched into my memory though is the first ascent of Telstar at Ikara Head in the Blue Mountains in 1974. Ian (Humzoo) Thomas and I teamed up for this little number. Since I led the first pitch it was Zoo’s turn for the second, a long visor of rock seared by an undercut, off-width crack that was largely hidden from view around a small internal roof. There was no way to check it out until this roof was negotiated. Zoo moved on out, and I breathed a big sigh of relief that I was firmly attached to the belay forgetting that it is often harder to follow what is basically a traverse rather than lead it. The fear of the unknown was in proportion to the size of the overhung and the depth of exposure below it. A perfect trifecta of the extreme for both of us.

Ian 'Humzoo' Thomas leading the roof
 on the first ascent of Telstar 19, Ikara Head
Note the tube chock hanging down.

The roof mastered, Zoo slipped out of sight, onwards and outwards towards the transition of the rock from the horizontal to the vertical. Just before the rock turned upwards he set up a hanging belay on nuts, his only protection on the journey from the rooflet to the belay was a 5 inch tube chock. The chock can be clearly seen in the accompanying photograph. It was a fantastic lead by Zoo, a real journey into the unknown, fear and trepidation and a lone tube chock his only companions in the bowels of that mighty overhang. And it still lurks at half height on the Ikara cliff as it juts majestically into the upper Grose Valley. My suggestion if you do the climb, take some bigger cams. But you could always borrow my tube chocks if you are into a bout of nostalgia.

Part 8. Clog Brass Hexagon on wire

If the protection for wider cracks were as scarce as the proverbial ‘hens’ teeth’ in the 1960’s then micro nuts were really nowhere to be seen. The earliest Micro Nut that I can remember is the brass hexagonal nut on wire made by Clog. The threaded wire was 2.5 mms in diameter so a crude estimate of the size of the nut would be 4.5 x 15 mms. The nut can be clearly seen in the photograph being the one on the left.

The Clog Brass Hexagon is on the left.

It was however, a nut with limitations. Both ends were vertical rather than tapered and this meant that they did not tuck snugly lengthwise into the V walls of cracks. A simple solution would have been to file some tapers but the wires were also placed too close to the ends. While I can’t remember any Blue Mountains climb (or indeed any area other than Balls Pyramid) where we used this nut, I do know of one occasion when this little number was a lifesaver or at least held a reasonably substantial fall. 

A friend (no names, no packdrill) was climbing Tombstone Wall at Wirindi in the early 70’s when he took an almighty fall. Now he thought the name of the climb was more than appropriate at the time given that his last protection piece, yes you got it in one – a Clog Brass Hexagon on wire. I saw him shortly after the fall and he was still amazed that it had held and had not been pulled from the surrounding sandstone. He probably bought himself a lottery ticket. The B&W shows an early ascent of Tombstone Wall by Ian (Humzoo) Thomas. Check the climbing gear visible and no, he didn’t fall.

Ian (Humzoo) Thomas on Tombstone Wall (15), Wirindi  in the mid 1970's
Note the Whillans Harness and period protection.

The Scottish Mountain Heritage Collection has been an excellent archive and resource for stories and photos relating to the earlier gear. The photos and the quote below are courtesy of the SMHC.

Closeup of Clog Brass Hexagons.

Full view of Clog Hexagons.

“If you like rock climbing history these are just the thing, and a little bit special, being a couple of very early Clog brass hexagonals dating from around 1970. At that time the two UK companies, Troll and Clog, were vying for a share of the market – though apart from the different names stamped on each one, it was sometimes hard to tell one from the other. Denny Moorhouse, owner of Clog at the time, is credited as being the inventor of the hexagonal shape (1).

Quite why the smaller ones were made from brass we’re not sure, but the idea did not last and very few were made which makes these fellas a bit rare.

We think the founder of our Heritage Collection, Mick Tighe, was using these ones way back in the 1970’s when he was a climbing instructor in the Royal Marines”
Hermione Cooper, 
http://www.smhc.co.uk/objects_item.asp?item_id=32090

(1)   No mention is made of Moorhouse’s earliest application of the hexagon to nuts but Ewbank’s hexagonal Crackers were manufactured in 1967.
(2) Victorian climber, Roland Pauligh later used brass in the manufacture of his much-celebrated RP’s (1975).

Part 9. Clog or Troll????

The Clog Brass Hexagon on wire was the forerunner of a further British influence on Australian climbing towards the end of the 1960’s. Others soon followed it, wedges on wire manufactured by ‘Clog’ and ‘Troll’. These also dominated before Chouinard Stoppers made their presence felt early in the next decade. The one shown below is the ‘Last of the Mohicans” on my rack. I had quite a few ‘Trolls’ as I found them very useful. Unfortunately, I sent this one to the Lord Howe Island Museum before I positively identified the maker as ‘Clog’ or ‘Troll’ but I believe it is one of the latter as the brands produced very similar products. One or two Trolls probably remained on my rack until the early 1980’s.

'The Last of the Mohicans' on the right.

Why were they so good? The wire loop was quite long and the wire was stiff. This meant they could be placed higher than roped or softer wired wedges and they sat neatly when racked. The firm wire also enabled them to be placed securely although this also meant that they needed to be slung so that they did not rotate out. They were also well made with the yellow plastic retainer and the red plastic protector on the loop. The swage also looked and felt very strong.

I used them on so many climbs but the one that stands out is Daedalus on Bluff Mountain. A big traverse left under a roof was protected by a fixed Troll Wedge on its right hand end. We also used some as fixed abseil anchors when we abseiled down the West Ridge of Balls Pyramid in 1973. Some of these wired nuts can be discerned in the photographs below if one looks carefully.

The author on Determinant - Booroomba Rocks, ACT
in the early 1970's. Check the gear. (KBC)

The author on Trapeze - Mt Arapiles, Victoria
again in the early 1970's with period gear. (KBC)

Part 10. Chouinard Stoppers

In his 1972 Catalogue Chouinard also introduced to the climbing world his set of Stoppers. At the time the sizes ranged from a #1 through to a #7. The sizes #1 - #4 were wired with a swage connection for greater strength. The #4 through to #7 were strung, usually with some difficulty. The smaller sizes can be considered the first of the micro nuts, as nothing like them really was available before their introduction. Some time later a #8 stopper was introduced. Unlike the original range, It had an elliptical lightening hole.

A pile of Stoppers on wire.

The catalogue stated:

“Compared with other shapes, Stoppers will normally provide the greatest security (holding power) and the biggest sling size (strength) possible in a given situation. Preferred placement is into a crack the narrow way since it is the most stable and has the largest surface area in contact with the rock in this position. However, it is also designed to fit endwise in wider cracks. Since Stoppers are very shallow in an endwise placement they are especially adaptable in bottoming cracks or placements on the surface of the rock.”

The introduction of Stoppers was timely, as standards had begun to rise around Australia. While they displayed the advantages mentioned above I found that when placed in narrow cracks that bottomed out quickly, half of the width of the nut often stood out from the rock surface thereby reducing its stability and holding power. The limitation in this situation was overcome later by the introduction of the RP, but more about that later. 

My other concern given that I was used to the wired configuration of my Trolls was that the larger Stoppers were strung and not wired. This meant that they could not be placed as high, the stringing rope with its large knot was often in the way. I remember pointing this out to Tom Frost at TGPIW in 1973 by showing him my Trolls and comparing them to the strung Stoppers. It seemed that he listened because soon after the larger sizes were also wired as the Black Diamonds are to this day.

Naming a climb or area where Stoppers came into their own, the Warrumbungles and Bluff Mountain comes to mind. When Greg Mortimer and I put up Bastion Buttress and Icarus in 1972 we used Stoppers not only for runners but were forced to used nests of them to get adequate belays. By the time I returned to Bluff in 1974 the advent of polycentics had negated this need. In some ways too, the #7 Stopper superseded the MOAC chockstone on climbers’ racks. 

Ray Lassman on Birdcage, Porters Pass in 1972 with
a Stopper for protection on the bouldery start.

Part 11.  RP’s

The RP was another Australian innovation that hit the climbing scene in 1975. Roland Pauligk, already a legend for his early ascent of Electra at Arapiles was the inventor of this very useful nut. The path to perfection however was not easy as the RP was in its third generational development when Roland discovered the desired combination of brass, steel and silver soldering. They were not mass produced marvels either, Roland hand-made them all in his back yard shed with typical German thoroughness. 

Roland's Creation - The RP
(Stephane Pennequin/Nuts Museum)

The RP was the epitome of form and application. The shiny brass wedge with its elegantly shaped bordered initials stamped into it without a wire bight on top or a swage to break the line of the wire was a thing of beauty. But this beauty also had function; the elimination of the wire bight and the swaged connection also made for greater inherent strength. But more importantly for climbing, its ratio of the length to width had a smaller differential that allowed the RP to slip neatly into narrow and shallow cracks and grooves. This is where it was at its best and it can be said to have revolutionised climbing in the late 1970’s. 

Hardly used (left) and well used RP's on the right.

I have lost count the number of times that I used these nuts and I still carry a number of them on my rack. Rather than relate a climb I would rather relate when I first met Roland. It was in the Warrumbungles in 1969, Roland was climbing with Keith Lockwood and I was paired with Howard Bevan. Howard and I had decided to have a go at Lieben, still considered an audacious undertaking at the time. Let me quote from an article that I have written.

“Howard and I made the fourth ascent of Lieben on Crater Bluff to a gallery of Victorians, which included Keith Lockwood, Roland and Anne Pauligk as well as their menagerie of parrots. Now one of their feathered friends wanting to get a closer look at the action flew up and perched on an important handhold just above me on the crux pitch. Each time I reached out to use the handhold a slashing beak would nip at my hand. Was this the harbinger of the interstate war (Victoria versus the rest) that raged throughout the seventies? As I hung about crazy thoughts went through my mind. What if I pushed the parrot off and it fell to its death at Roland’s feet some 150 metres below. Tangling with Roland made me think I would be better off going tandem with the bird. In the end it was going to be either the cocky or I and stuff the consequences. I took out my peg hammer, reached up and gently but firmly pushed the bird over the precipice.  It fell completing a neat somersault before it finally unfurled its wings and thankfully flew away without sustaining any damage. Next day Roland and Keith did the fifth ascent and I was pleased to see the parrot sat on the former’s shoulder as he climbed the crux pitch. At least he had a feathered handicap too.”

While many people have written about the troublesome antics of Roland’s parrots; many more have remembered with great appreciation the nuts that he inspired, made and gave to the climbing world.

   Part 12. Original Hexcentrics

Prior to the early 1970’s the greatest influence on climbing protection in Australia had been largely Anglocentric with a brief nascent Australian influence with the appearance of John Ewbank’s Crackers in 1967. This was about to change. As John Curtin, our PM in 1942 stated:

“Without any inhibitions of any kind, I make it quite clear that Australia looks to America, free of any pangs to our traditional links or kinship with the United Kingdom.”

And so climbing replicated politics in the 1970's.

 

Examples of the original Hexcentrics.

Although they took some time to reach our shores Chouinard began this US revolution by the introduction of his ‘Hexcentrics” in 1971. Numbered 1 to 10 they were a cut above Crackers by offering better angles, a wider end cross section and a hollow tubular frame. This made them lighter with greater stability and a better range of sizes. I was slow to make the transition but did climb with ‘Other Peoples’ on a number of occasions as the photos below will show.

 

Chouinard Hexcentrics #1 - #10
(Chouinard Catalogue - 1972)

One such occasion occurred in 1973 when American, Larry Hamilton and I put up a new route on Notchtop Pinnacle in the Rocky Mountains National Park, Colorado.

Larry Hamilton leading on Religion, Notchtop
 with a couple of Hexcentics hanging down.

Another in 1973 was when Vern Clevenger and I made the second ascent of Adams Rib on the Wheeler Crest in the Sierra Nevadas.

Vern leading the first unusual pitch of Adams Rib
 on the Rabbits Ears, Wheeler Crest.

Closer to home, John Fantini and I caught on an early ascent of Caligula in 1972 at Mount Buffalo, Victoria.

The author seconding Caligula, Mt Buffalo.
Note the hex near the rope (KBC).

Modern climbers now might read on and weep as they take note of the prices charged in $US for hexes and stoppers back in the early 1970’s.

Hexcentric No. 1 Wired       1.90                            

Hexcentric No. 1                  1.00                            

Hexcentric No. 2                  1.05                            

Hexcentric No. 3                  1.10                            

Hexcentric No. 4                  1.20                            

Hexcentric No. 5                  1.25                            

Hexcentric No. 6                  1.35                            

Hexcentric No. 7                  1.50                            

Hexcentric No. 8                  1.65                            

Hexcentric No. 9                  1.75

Hexcentric No.10                 2.10

Hexcentric No.11                 2.50

Stopper No. 1 Wired           1.75
Stopper No. 2 Wired           1.80
Stopper No. 3 Wired           1.95
Stopper No. 4 Wired           2.05
Stopper No. 4                      0.90
Stopper No. 5                      0.90
Stopper No. 6                      1.10
Stopper No. 7                      1.25
Stopper No. 8                      1.40
Chouinard Catalogue 1972    

Although the symmetrically shaped Hexcentic was a great advance in the shape and usefulness of this type of nut, the restless energies of Yvonne Chouinard and Tom Frost soon rendered it largely obsolete.

Part 13. Polycentric Hexcentrics

Sometimes it only takes a minor tweak to make something simply good into something simply excellent. And so it was with the original Hexcentric. 

Comparison of #9 Hexcentrics.
Polycentric (left), Original (Right).

Throughout 1973 I had spent much time climbing and hitch hiking around America. In December I made a final stopover at The Great Pacific Iron Works, Chouinard’s workshop and retail store in Ventura, California. Yvonne had kindly set up a basement kitchen and sleeping area for visiting climbers that was accessed through the retail shop. While there, ‘Tex” Bossier, the manager of the store pulled me aside and gave me the keys to Alladin’s Cave of wondrous items. He showed me the new asymmetrical Hexcentrics that had only just came out and told me to grab a full set and sling them before I left for home. On return to Sydney I probably had the first set of ‘Polycentrics’ to enter Australia. 

The Hexcentrics from #2 to #10 that I was given at the GPIW's.

Sometimes ingenuity relies on simplicity and the subtle change of the side angle made a huge difference to the usefulness of the Hexcentric. Rather than the original two way fit, the polycentric now fitted three ways. This made a huge difference in the straight sided cracks of Frog Buttress and in some of those found in the Blue Mountains. While the fit was better it still took some time hanging around to find it, a problem that was would be overcome by the introduction of cams some five years later. The success of the asymmetrical shape persisted and has had many imitators.

Having a rack of Hexcentrics of either type made it very hard to sneak out of camp quietly as they emitted the sounds that might be heard on a high Swiss meadow. Out on the crags you could always hear another party long before you could see them by the ringing of the ‘cow bells’. But the Hexcentric did have another problem – weight. In 1975/76 this was overcome by the addition of lightening holes but the range had also increased somewhat by the appearance of a #11 in 1974. 

See the photos below for unslung and slung versions of these Hexcentrics courtesy of Stephane Pennequin/Nuts Museum.

In terms of climbing my hexcentrics shown above were certainly given a hammering in the Warrumbungles. They were our main source of protection on Flight of the Phoenix and I have memories of getting in a beautiful #10 placement somewhere under the wing.

The author leading Flight of the Phoenix, Bluff Mt.
 

Likewise, Greg Mortimer, Ian ‘Humzoo’ Thomas and I made good use of the new hexcentrics on a number of first ascents that we put up on Tonduron in 1974.

The author relaxing after climbing on Tonduron.
Note the Hexcentrics hanging on the right. (Greg Mortimer)

The author seconding Virago, Tonduron. (Greg Mortimer)

The cracks in the Blue Mountains also succumbed to the charms of the Polycentrics as the photo below shows Harry Luxford sporting a rack of them in the upper sections of the classic Flake Crack at Mt Piddington. 

Harry Luxford on Flake Crack in the 1970's.
Note the Hexcentrics and BB (Beau Brummel) boots.

Part 14. Solid Stem Original ‘Friends’

Wild Country Friends arrived in Australia probably around 1978 but were only available in three sizes: #1, #2 and #3 with solid stems.

#1, 2 and 3 Solid Stem Friends.

The year after the #4 was introduced and several tweaks had already been made with circlips, thin machine nuts then thick machine nuts to hold the cams onto the axle.

#4 Friend

 In 1981 three new half sizes were added to the range between the #1 and #4 Friends namely a #1.5, #2.5 and #3.5 with different coloured slings to identify the sizes. I must have kept climbing on my trusty Chouinard ‘Polycentrics’ as all my early Friends belong to this generation. 

#1.5, 2.5 and 3.5 Friend.

 Rohan Reynolds, Steve Anderson and I went onto Pyro, a big rightward leaning corner crack at Porters Pass with the intention of eliminating its aid. We were successful in doing this, grading it 21. 

The corner of Pyro as seen from its base.

It must have been around 1978 to 1980 as either Rohan or Steve had the early #1, #2 and #3 Friends. It was the first time that I had used them on a climb and hadn’t yet mastered the subtleties that they presented. Only having three also meant that it was easier to resort to using the protection that you were used to. There was also a fear of the Friends walking into the crack and overcamming. When this happens, the smaller ones present a greater problem to extract them because of the tightness of the fit. Owing to the solid stem we mostly used them only in vertical positions as a placement in a horizontal slot ran the risk of bending and damaging the stem if a fall was taken. In Part 14b. it will be shown how a Friend could be rigged to eliminate this problem

Part 14a. First Sighting

In 1973 I spent some time stooging around and climbing in Yosemite Valley. One bright morning I was invited to tag along as Ray Jardine, a lanky American climber was going to demonstrate a new fangled device to his mate. He led us to a 15 metre off-width crack and after gearing up slipped his body into its confines. After a metre or so he placed his sole piece of pro, which he proudly called his ‘Rock Jumar’. As he ascended he slid the contraption up the wide crack with him thus providing complete protection as he moved up. Astounding!!!

Ray Jardine's original 'Friend'.
(Photo Stephane Pennequin/Nut Museum)

Little did I realise that this amazing pair of ‘Angel Wings’ some five or so later were to become my ‘Friends’. Some Wild Country could now be ascended with greater assurance.

Part 14b. Solid Stem Friends in horizontal slots

Part 15. Rocks
In 1979 Wild Country was at the fore again with a minor tweaking of wedges, this was in fact another great leap forward by the company. At first glance the original Rock looked like a Stopper but when examined closely the body of the wedge was curved. 

Stopper (#6) Vs Rock (#7).

Whereas, the Stopper had two points of contact with the rock, the curve of the Rock gave it three points and allowed it to be torqued firmly into the rock as shown in the diagram below.

A well set Rock.
(United Kingdom Climbing Website)

The introduction of the curve rendered other wedges essentially obsolete and all designs since have utilized this configuration.

A bunch of Rocks
 on a Simond Carabiner.

And on what climb did Rocks come into their own? The answer: The Land of the Wedgie. While this could be referring to the many Wedgetails flying around Bluff Mountain in the Warrumbungles, the place I am thinking of is Mt Arapiles. Take any classic climb, grab a good selection of Rocks (or equivalents) and clamber your way to glory by slotting in as many bombers as you like. Some may be thinking hexes or cams are the go here but I have always found that I put in more wired wedges than cams or hexes. I usually don’t carry ‘cow bells’ here but many people swear by them. 

The author at Arapiles. (KBC)
Gear is usually carried on a bandolier with stoppers at the front,
 then cams in the middle with quick draws at the back.
 Always carry some longer slings over the other shoulder.

As the Arapiles guidebook boldly states, “ Arapiles is home to the ‘sinker’ nut”. Damn right!!!


Part 16. HB’s
It took some Australian ingenuity to overcome the lack of cam sizes below a #1 in the early 1980’s. Malcolm Matheson, better known as ‘Horsham Bruce’ derived from the town in Victoria where he lived started producing beautiful little cams using titanium for the stems and aircraft aluminium for the cams. 

The HB Cam
A climbing masterpiece
(Stephane Pennequin/Nuts Museum)

Initially, he made a #0.5 then extended his range across the decimal sizes below the #1. Finally, he started mass-producing these sought after pieces using home made equipment in batches of 300 to 400. I purchased two but I can’t remember when or exactly where they were purchased.  These ‘little gems’ were my go-to pieces particularly on harder walls and their use allowed me to climb where many climbers would be bashing in bolts today. Unfortunately one was sacrificed on a climb and the remaining one now proudly sits in the Nuts Museum in Corsica. It is the cam on the blue sling in the photograph below.

HB Cams
The red and yellow slung cams are First Generation,
the cam on the blue sling is Second Generation.
(Stephane Pennequin/Nuts Museum)

Further Information:

The samples with the red (#1/2) and yellow (#3/4) tape would probably be amongst the first that HB produced, these were virtually hand-made. He later changed his method of manufacture to cope with an ever increasing demand. These early units have brass washers (later S.S.) and Stainless Steel shafts. The shafts changed to titanium later and had knurled ends. Malcolm was selling them as fast as he could make them, which was only 10 or so a week. I also noticed when looking more closely at the two generations that Malcolm had changed the location of the hole for the rope sling or the tape and had knurled the end of the stem. He had also stamped his initials in a different location as well as adding drilled “lightening” holes in the 6061T6 aircraft aluminium cam lobes of the blue sample (Stephane Pennequin/Nuts Museum). 

Unfortunately, I lost the other one in the wilderness of Northern Victoria. Brian Mattick and I had an ‘Alpine Start’ and rumbled down the aptly named Devils Backbone into the Little River Gorge. Turning right on reaching the river we drifted upstream for a while until we reached Wulgulmerang Creek then took a left into it.  A waterfall blockade was taken on the left and finally we entered into the ‘Cirque of the Unmentionable’. A traverse around it at the bottom of the steep rock on the right led us to our goal – The Grand Old Duke of York.

Wilderness Climbing at its best.
The Grand Old Duke of York
(Photo: Allan Gledhill)

Although a somewhat overused analogy this last section reminded me of the lake guarding the entrance of Mines of Moria in the Lord Of the Rings. Instead of the lake though there is an impenetrable expanse of blackberry no doubt inhabited by blacks, tigers, copperheads and even the occasional anaconda. One could die in here and the world would never know.

Sketch showing the original route.
(Geoff Gledhill)

Ahead lay about 8 to 10 pitches of rather solid climbing. TGODOY was first ascended by Geoff and Allan Gledhill in 1972, they graded it 17. Let me state at this stage if you are a grade 17 climber and thinking of doing it, take a friend who climbs a few grades harder. Be warned also, this is a real wilderness climb with a long approach and an even longer walk out even if one leaves a car at McKillips Bridge. Strangely, water is a problem. While most of the walk out is along Wulgulmerang Creek, its water is black, stagnant, even malignant and could well have been the original home of the anacondas mentioned earlier. Getting the right balance of water to carry is difficult but I would definitely leave a canteen or two at the bridge.

In the late 1990’s Michael Totterdell and some mates straightened the route out by adding a direct finish again graded 17. Bryan and I climbed out by using this finish. However, it was near the start of it where my loss occurred. I remember swinging along a slab trying to break through a steep wall and also find a bolt runner. As it is quite an airy situation I found a beautiful little slot under a solid flake and put in my smaller HB cam. Finally I cracked the puzzle and moved up into the crack system above. Imagine my disappointment when Brian arrived and informed me that my much-loved and used cam was now a solid addition to the climb. My only hope is that the next party might now be the proud owners of that HB masterpiece.

The Direct Finish
My HB was stuck on the wall above and left of the climber.
(Photo: Michael Totterdell, Rock, #36, 1998, P. 36)

Orange Marmalade – Lower Shipley – Blue Mountains
In 1972 Ray Lassman and I put up Clockwork Orange. About 15 metres to the right we also climbed a route called Orange Marmalade. This route was mostly free with two small sections of aid but still has the beautiful orange rock that is a feature of that section of cliff. In the late 1980’s I returned with Nick Bendeli with the elimination of the aid in mind. The initial corner groove went free to a small triangular roof; above it was the first aid section. Since the pro was sketchy I placed a bolt on the wall above the roof then went for it. About 3 or 4 metres above the wall relented to easier climbing before the rock steepened for the final aid moves to gain the ledge that led right to a belay tree. It was at the bottom of this section and a little out to the left that I placed one of my HB cams into a bomber horizontal slot. Emboldened by this, I flashed up the remaining steep section and gratefully caressed the ‘thank god’ holds that were offered by the lip of the ledge. The tree gained, all that remained was a short easy pitch to the top.

Part 17. Climbing Gear - 1974 and before

Ray Lassman after topping out on the first ascent of
Flight of the Phoenix, Easter 1974.

Ray Lassman after topping out on the first ascent of Flight of the Phoenix, Easter 1974.

Check out the Hexcentrics on a bandolier. Bluff Mountain racks were heavy Trad packages so were more easily supported by the shoulders than having your harness dragged off by the weight.

The harness is the classic ‘Whillans Harness’, it was a ball tearer of a harness if you get my drift. That said though, it was probably the best available at the time.

The pack is a Whillans Sack; it tapered from the top to a narrow bottom so it needed to be packed carefully. It had a black leather base and leather straps.

Ray’s boots are EB’s, again probably the best around at the time. Actually a boot with high friction rubber sole and rand but nowhere near as sticky as that available today.

The helmet is a Joe Brown one made of fibreglass. They were a heavy unit and climbers needed to do neck exercises in order to support them safely. They could also get very hot.

The piece of equipment hanging off Ray’s harness is an original ‘Jumar’. This was much easier to use than a classic Prussik loop in the event of some emergency.

The pinnacle behind is Crater Bluff. Bryden Allen’s timeless route, Cornerstone Rib follows the left skyline and his amazing 1965 route, Lieben goes up the middle of the face. The latter was considered the hardest climb in Australia for many years. 

Part 18. Grand Recap

As we have seen there was a paucity of protection (as well as climbers) in Australia during the 1950’s with a slow but steady influx of climbers equipped with British gear during the 1960’s. However, a scarcity of gear in the micro and macro sizes continued to be a problem as standards started to rise. In the early 1970’s Chouinard’s Stoppers and Hexcentrics entered the fray and all of a sudden American rather than British gear reigned supreme. This dominance would last throughout the decade - almost.

The Anglo-American, Wild Country ‘Friends’ started to make their presence felt on racks from 1977 onwards. Wild Country scored again with the introduction of ‘Rocks’ in 1979. Suddenly, the British seemed to wield dominance again in the Australian protection market. A reflection of the 1960’s remained though; there remained deficiencies in the micro and macro end of the range. While Stoppers and Rocks had smaller sizes, their stability in narrow, shallow cracks was often compromised by the width of the nut. Friends were also limited too in that while half sizes had been introduced, their smallest to largest sizes were defined by the #1 and #4 cams.

But Australian’s had also played a part in this development. John Davis introduced the Ballrace as a short-term filler for cracks in the early to mid1960’s.  In 1967 John Ewbank introduced his ‘Crackers’ and these were a mainstay on racks for many years. Roland Pauligk introduced RP’s in 1975 and they have set the standard for micronuts right up to the present day. In the early 1980’s Malcolm Matheson started producing beautifully made cams (HB’s) in sizes below the #1 Friend thus filling a void in the market. Cams above a #4 Friend would be sometime in coming. 

And so the early 1980’s offered almost a full complement of good protection, the only deficiency was that tube chocks were still the mainstays of protecting off-width and larger cracks. And given that nut and cam protection was almost reaching its zenith, bolts were also starting to make their presence felt in ever increasing numbers.

To Be Continued